Surfing again has reconnected me to a part of myself I thought was lost. Just sitting out there on the board, legs dangling, hand pushing through the surf, listening to the sounds of the ocean I felt whole again.

To build the conditions for people to rest their minds and bodies and to enjoy something as wonderful as surfing and yoga, it’s a beautiful purpose.

Getting older means I don’t want to waste time or energy on things that don’t excite me. I fear missing out on all the adventure and beauty life offers more than trying something new. That’s why I had to take advantage of this unique opportunity to learn about surf photography from the water.

When I first started noticing couples surfing together, I wanted to know more about how a relationship with the ocean enhances a romantic relationship? I met Mike and Akiyo a few years ago. I’d see them on the beach and surfing solo or with friends and then started spotting them going out together. I could tell immediately a beautiful friendship radiated at the core of their life together.

When I’m having a bad day I go surf. When I’m having a great day I go surf. The ocean never fails to remind me everything is temporary, bad or good. It puts me back into the current moment, to just be, and be okay.

I feel a sense of unity with nature. It's Zen for me. 

You know that feeling you get when you walk into a room that you’re not supposed to be in and everyone turns to look at you, it’s a little like that. Paddling out on big days I’m often the only female surfer out there at my local jetty.

There is a before and after Rockaway in my life. Same as there is a before and after my cancer. I can’t even imagine how it would be to transition into this new life, if I didn’t have Rockaway,

New York City peaceful protest in the form of the ancient practice of the Paddle Out.