Zen Life

Takashi Yamada

Japanese Fashion Company Director, Model, Surfer

West Chester, New York

How were you introduced to surfing?

I surfed for the first time when I was 20 years old. At that time some of my friends had already started surfing together. Short board surfing was very challenging to me, and I didn’t enjoy it much. Longboard surfing was a game changer.

Do you prefer surfing solo or with a friend(s)?

I usually surf with friends. If it’s Rockaway, I don’t mind going by myself, because there are always some familiar faces in the lineup.

Surfing and Travel tend to go hand in hand. Where are the places you’ve surfed?

California, Barbados, Costa Rica, Maui, Oahu in Hawaii, and Bali, Indonesia. I enjoy surfing locally to avoid too much work for traveling.

Are most of your friends surfers? What do you value most about the surf community? (locally & as a whole)

Yes, most of my close friends are surfers. Respect is most important. We share the waves, and I do not say how they surf. But I’m always open to hearing advice from good surfers.

Surfers usually have an ever growing collection of boards. Do you have a collection? What’s your favorite surfboard that you own? And why is it your favorite?

I’m not a collector. I have only 3 longboards, 1 mid length, a shortboard, and now a fish.

My Takayama longboard is my favorite because this is the first board I bought when I moved to NYC, and it's a really easy board.

How has surfing changed you? What does surfing add to your life?

It’s a lot. I try to be healthy because I surf. Surfing is not easy. That's why I always try to improve with kook spirit!

Can you put into words the feeling you have out in the water, riding a wave?

I feel a sense of unity with nature. It's Zen for me.

I always find it so interesting to learn more about a surfer's background. You and I recently did a photo shoot, and you talked about how you began modeling. I especially love stories about people doing new things later in their lives and careers. Could you talk about how you started modeling?

I started professional modeling several years ago. One of our clients asked me to model for them. Other customers saw me modeling and started asking me. Even Esquire Magazine reached out to me. Since then I model several times per season. To be honest, I was really surprised to become a model in my late forties.

What are 2 or 3 things you know for sure?

*Surfing makes a healthy body and life.

*Surfing is the best tool to make friends.

*Surfing releases stress, relieves anxiety, and brings clarity to the mind and the heart.

How can I stop surfing?